A man and two women were selling flowers as an offering at the gate of Shwemawdaw Pagoda

Man and to women selling offerings — Flower vendor at Shwemawdaw Pagoda

Shwemawdaw Pagoda in Bago, the old capital of Myanmar, stands on a gentle hill. For that reason, the entrance to its grounds lies at the foot of the slope, and from there you cannot see the stupa at all, not even the outline of a shrine. Above the gate, some words are written, but of course only in Burmese script. Without prior knowledge, it would take a foreign traveler some effort to realize that this unassuming opening leads to one of the country’s most important pagodas.

So why did I walk toward it without hesitation? The answer was simple: a curious number of people were gathered near the entrance, all holding flowers. Whether or not this was the gate to Shwemawdaw Pagoda, it was clearly the entrance to something. The abundance of flowers made that unmistakable. In travel, practicality often trumps logic, and human movement speaks more clearly than signboards ever do.

The people lingering near the gate were all carrying large bouquets. These were offerings meant for the pagoda inside, which meant they were both worshippers and flower sellers at the same time. In Japan, people may toss coins when visiting shrines or temples, but it is rare to see anyone arrive with an armful of flowers. In Myanmar, by contrast, flowers are essential to religious practice. Prayer here is often expressed not in cash, but in fresh blossoms, bright and fragrant, held carefully in both hands.

Shwemawdaw Pagoda on Google Map

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