Looking back at the approach from the Yamanoue Daijingu Shrine, the slope beyond the torii leads to Hakodate Bay

After the long, punishing climb up the steep slope, the grounds of Sanjō Daijingū in Hakodate felt almost austere. The precinct was small, with a plainly built wooden shrine standing quietly at its center. Few worshippers were around. And yet, appearances were deceptive. Inside that modest structure, things seemed rather crowded. The shrine hosts a surprising number of deities: Amaterasu Ōmikami at the head, Konohanasakuya-hime beside her, Ōkuninushi from the earthly gods, and even Sugawara no Michizane. Nine deities in all. For such an unassuming building, it must be quite full inside.

I find myself feeling a little sympathy for Sugawara no Michizane. Unlike the others—beings of myth and legend—he was an actual historical figure. One imagines him standing there among divine colleagues born of stories, feeling slightly out of place. Surrounded by immortals, a former human might well suffer from a quiet sense of inferiority.

With so many gods under one roof, the shrine presumably offers a wide range of blessings. Still, the true highlight of Sanjō Daijingū, perched halfway up Mount Hakodate, is surely the view. When you are climbing, focused entirely on the ascent, it is easy to miss. But once you pause in the precinct and turn back toward the path you just conquered, the scenery opens up and demands attention. Beyond the shimenawa hanging from the torii gate, the steep approach road runs straight downhill, and at its far end Hakodate Bay lies open, waiting. It looks less like a road than a giant slide, stretching all the way down toward the sea.

Yamanoue Daijingu Shrine on Google Map

Comment via

日本語