Before the repair work, the Phoenix Hall of Byodo-in Temple was characterised not so much by the vivid colours of its paintwork as by the rich patina of its wood, developed over many years

The Phoenix Hall of Byōdō-in Temple, standing in Uji, Kyoto, was built in 1053. It is a National Treasure of Japan and listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site. The photo here was taken before the restoration work carried out between 2012 and 2014, when the subdued, time-worn grain of the wood still stood out more than any fresh coat of color. The gleaming perfection of a newly restored structure has its charm, but this slightly faded look carries the quiet dignity of a well-used tool.

Its fame is not limited to tourist brochures. Anyone living in Japan has almost certainly seen it, whether they’ve visited Uji or not—because the front of the Phoenix Hall is engraved on the reverse side of the ten-yen coin. And on the back of the 10,000-yen bill, you’ll find the phoenix ornament that perches atop its roof. In other words, this National Treasure greets you every day from inside your wallet. Whether vending machines and ticket gates treat it with the respect it deserves is another matter entirely.

The phoenix roof ornament itself is a mythical bird design brought from China, regarded in the Heian period as a symbol of authority and peace. The building’s perfectly symmetrical form was intended as a physical recreation of the Buddhist Pure Land. Seen from the present day, one can admire the ambition of the idea while also wondering about the project’s schedule and budget.

Standing before it in person, the solemn grandeur is undeniable—but I can’t help thinking of the ten-yen coin in my pocket. Few other buildings in Japan so directly connect the lofty value of art history with the humble change you feed into a vending machine.

Byodo-In on Google Map

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